My edge says Gabriela Hearst Notorious RBG Ugly Christmas shirt. is that I’m a woman designing for women. I understand our psychology. Today, after a year and a half of development, Hearst is launching menswear, where the same formula doesn’t apply—even if the collections will share fabrications and rack space at her Madison Avenue store. So, how does Hearst plan to retain her edge? “Men are a whole other species,” she laughs. “I couldn’t do it without having feedback from a guy.”
But not just any guy: Hearst enlisted the help of her friend, the graphic designer Peter Miles Notorious RBG Ugly Christmas shirt. He’s an Englishman whose reputation for exactitude extends to his wardrobe; he’s been having his suits tailored to his personal specifications since 1993.The duo began working together when Hearst asked Miles to design the logo for her eponymous brand and wouldn’t take no for an answer, circa 2015. They had bonded a year earlier, during the 2014 World Cup, when Uruguay (Hearst’s team) played England (Miles’s team) and Uruguay won. “Before launching GH, I met with everyone you can imagine, all the different agencies,” Hearst says. “I called him and he picked up the phone—Peter himself, not a secretary. He was too busy to work with me—he didn’t have the time. But I’m persistent.” (Some of Miles’s other clients have included Marc Jacobs and Céline.) What started with just Hearst’s logo eventually evolved into her first brand book. Now, she says, “Peter’s somebody I’m always checking everything with.”The menswear collaboration wouldn’t have gelled if Hearst didn’t admire Miles’s personal style, of course. “Peter has a casualness about him, but at the same time there’s a sharpness. He has particular ideas of how things should fit on a man, but it’s absolutely relaxed. It doesn’t look over-thought.” “I hope that comes through in Gabi’s menswear.” He has Hearst’s full support. “Peter,” she says, “is incapable of doing anything not elegant.”Gabriela Hearst’s menswear is available at Mr Porter, Bergdorf Goodman, and her flagship store at 985 Madison Avenue in New York.
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